Emerging from his kitchen in an oversized black T-shirt, visible tattoos and a buzz cut to boot, Simone Villa isn’t your average Michelin chef. He’s grinning almost uncontrollably when we first lock eyes, and proudly invites us to take a seat in his restaurant – a venture that had never so much as crossed his mind until recently, when he met his wife Grace. Love does that sometimes.
Raised in Parma, Italy, Villa worked alongside Michelin star chef Gualtiero Marchesi – the man considered to be the founder of modern Italian cuisine – at polished hillside hotel Cavallino Bianco early on in his career. His humble enthusiasm for the culinary arts later brought him to Barcelona, Germany, Yangzhou, Shanghai and, finally, Guangzhou, where he tends to La Vita è Bella, set beside Oakwood Premier Guangzhou.
The menu reads much as one would expect from a top chef: there’s an Italian Caprese salad (RMB48) not merely ‘with basil,’ but ‘with basil emulsion’; and chic desserts like the poached pear in red wine and balsamic vinegar (RMB48) and crepes with mascarpone cheese sauce, orange and brandy (RMB38). As dainty as the menu and place settings are, however, the ambiance falls short, with office-like chairs, pesky mosquitoes and overeager faux foliage detracting from an otherwise refined feel.
The Caprese, though fresh and adorned with a sprig of lavender, has five slices of tomato and only four pieces of mozzarella. Intentional or not, it’s never fun to consume a tomato plain. One should at least err on the side of more cheese, right?
Our misgivings fade away with the next dish: imported seared red tuna on black sesame crust (RMB78), perfectly cooked and served over sweet romaine with just enough balsamic and lemon dressing to keep each bite interesting. If you visit, consider it a must-order.
A well-presented but lamentably average-tasting clam linguine (RMB78) follows, only to be swiftly transferred to a take-out container to make room for our preferred order: a homemade Italian sausage and mushroom pizza (RMB108). We just can’t say no to a grease-free, thin-crust pie topped with fresh tomato puree. Larger chunks of sausage would be welcome, however.
Pricy mains like the Australian Angus grilled rib eye (RMB238) are probably delicious but will do undue damage on your wallet. As a party of two, we are more than satisfied with a pair of appetizers, a pasta dish and one pizza. Add in a few glasses of wine (the menu includes recommendations to pair with certain dishes) and tiramisu (RMB48), and it’s sure to be a pleasant evening.
Price: RMB150
Who’s going: US Consulate staff, Italian expats
Good for: delicious seared red tuna, chatting with a Michelin chef
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